Brik a l'oeuf

Brik a l'oeuf. The picture says it all.

We dined Alsatian yesterday. Tomato Soup (well I guess they eat it in Alsace), Choucroute Garni and Apple Strudel for dessert.

The soup was made from a frozen block of our homegrown tomatoes (picture is of our "Heaviest Truss" at the Horticultural show). We have found that the best way to deal with a glut of tomatoes is to rough chop them, reduce to about a third and then freeze them. The resulting block can then be used wherever cooked tomatoes are required. Because of the fantastic flavour this merely required a little garlic and olive oil to make an excellent tomato paste. A small glass of port to round out the flavour and a little water to adjust consistency. After passing through a sieve to remove skin and pips this made a delicious, intense tomato soup. Because of the richness only a small serving is needed, so we were able to use the fancy small bowls, about 75ml capacity.

With the sauerkraut we had: Roast gammon, bratwurst, frankfurters, black pudding, boiled potatoes, glazed carrots and mustard. Enough to satisfy the most dedicated of meat eaters.

We had a couple of bottles of Riesling to accompany, a slightly sweeter one with the pudding.

Mostly we have a roast for Sunday: pork, chicken, beef and lamb. As well as enjoying the traditional flavours of a the roast meat it goes very well with seasonal vegetables cooked in traditional ways. Yesterday, as a slight variation, we had a half shoulder of lamb cooked in a close fitting casserole with carrots, celery, home grown soisson beans, onions and garlic. Some stock halfway up the meat and then a slow braise. Served with brussel sprouts and a mash of potatoes and parsnips.

The other advantage of a having a reasonably large joint is that it often sets the agenda for the coming week. Leftovers provide the opportunity for cooking many old favourites, saves on shopping and thinking.

The weather has now taken a definite turn into winter; cooler, wetter, windier and the allotment now looks most desolate. Not much work to be done but still plenty of root crops (parsnip, beetroot, swede) to harvest. There is a little spinach and chard, a few slug eaten lettuce and plenty of parsley, but not much else in the way of green veg. Cropped, what I expect to be, the last of the second surge of artichokes. We have not been very successful with brassicas recently so the only ones we are trying for at the moment are some sprouting broccoli that won't be ready before March/April. I think the issue has been a combination of neglect, very wet spells and the endemic club root.

The leaves on the horseradish are dying off so I decided to dig some up. Couldn't but think of Ben and his enthusiasm for horseradish. He was doing some work in the house last year when he found me about to chuck out some old horseradish that had been hiding in a corner of the fridge for a couple of weeks. After he expressed an interest I gave him a taste, which he loved, wolfing down a whole teaspoon of it. Not too impressive as it had lost a lot of its punch while 'maturing' at the back of the fridge. Later in the week I made up a fresh root and again offered Ben some to taste. Not realising the substantially increased potency he put another teaspoonful into his mouth. The effect was immediate and literally explosive with Ben just managing to make it across the kitchen to the sink before spitting it all out. Very slapstick and very painful for Ben, so did I laugh?

Starting to use the winter squashes. I check them frequently and as soon as they show signs of turning soft or mouldy I cut out the bad bit and cook the rest. The Burgess Buttercup are a very rich, orange colour with a sweet flavour. These are ideal for a Thai style sweet, hot and sour soup.

The prison pallor has gone, replaced by the glow of a healthy suntan. Two days in the smoker has transformed the new ham from an unattractive pork leg of doubtful character to the kind of hunk seen hanging on the arm of up and coming starlets. And the divine odour of oak smoke is permeating the kitchen in a most satisfactory way.

Took the ham out of the fridge where it had been lying a little neglected. Hanging up in the kitchen it looks a little aneamic and fails to inspire any confidence.

Busy time on the allotment, lots of clearing to do and time permitting, some winter digging will be of value. I don't like bonfires but the amount of Asparagus foliage this year is too much to accomodate on the compost heaps so I gave it to it. Have to admit that I always enjoy it. The weather has been quite dry with just a little rain and the soil should be just right for turning over.

We have just returned from a visit to Scotland. Drove to Edinburgh and stayed overnight in the New Town. We didn't have much time for sightseeing but managed a tramp around the New Town (built around 1800) and visited the Georgian House in Charlotte Square, which is owned by the NT. This is a large classic period house now presented as a musuem, very interesting with a particularly well furnished kitchen. Much recommended. We had dinner in a local pub, Steak and Chips, just what the doctor ordered after an exhausting day travelling.

Staying with Betty in Kincraig is very comfortable as this sharp witted octagenarian has a great love of food and whisky. Betty's body clock is set to permanent Eastern time, as the sun drops over her yardarm very early. Pre-dinner is Black Bottle, a blend of Islay Malts and after dinner we indulged in the 20 year old Aberlour in the picture. This was a numbered bottle of "Dr Hexter's Medicinal Malt". The glass was owned by Betty's father and is a perfect little dram glass with a classic Art Nouveau, Greek Keys design.

On our way up we stopped at the House of Bruar. Just the place for buying expensive tweeds and food treats. We spotted a man selling locally picked Chanterelles and Girolles. Knowing that Betty loves her food and is partial to the finer things in life we bought her 150g of Girolles. We arrived to find about a kilo of perfect Girolles that her neighbour had picked and given her that morning. We sauteed some in butter and served them on toast with a little Hollandaise sauce. The sauce was not an improvement but the Girolles were superb, very clean without a hint of sand. We brought some back that were sauteed and frozen.

Other food highlights included a duck confit and a dish of black pudding and scallops.

The Blacksticks Blue reminds me of our dinner last week at the Clog and Billycock in the Ribble Valley. It's a gastro-pub with a great reputation, recommended by brother Matthew. We went with brother David and Heather. For starters we shared a fish platter, that was comprised of locally sourced items including: smoked trout and salmon, pickled mussels and some other deliciously fishy items. I followed that with roast pigeon on a bed of parched peas, bacon and lentils; absolutely delicious. We finished this off by sharing a cheeseboard. This was made up of 10 different Lancashire cheeses: Lancs crumbly and tasty, two different blue cheeses, a curd cheese, a goat's milk cheese a Lancs bomb and 3 others. One of the best cheeseboards I've ever had. As well as a full range of flavours everything was local and unfamiliar.

Dinner

Tonight we have Ben and Roger coming for dinner.

Butternut Squash Soup
Tilapia fillets Meuniere
with boiled potatoes and Petit Pois a la Francaise
Cheese: Morbier, Blacksticks Blue and Berkswell
Pear and Blackberry Pie served with Creme Fraiche

All fruit and veg is from the allotment except the Pears. Peas and Blackberries are from the freezer.

Started a new ham yesterday. Got a whole leg of pork (>8kg), rubbed with salt and put into the fridge. Will continue with the salt treatment for a couple of weeks. The picture is a plate of ham cured last year.

In the beginning

Inspired by brother John and the film Julie & Julia, I have decided to keep a diary of food and allotment and stuff.

A visit to the allotment shows the last of the summer fruit and veg. A tubful of raspberries, a handful of runners and a final courgette. We have had no rain since early in the month and the soil surface is very dry. Still in the ground and looking happy are parsnips, beetroot, purple sprouting, celeriac, pak choi, spinach, chard and lettuces. Also picked a few berlotti beans and some pak choi to go with the pork chops for tonight.

The picture is of today's lunch. Tomato soup made from roasted, homegrown tomatoes and served with homebaked sourdough.